• Bacteria and viruses
• Nitrates
• Heavy metals such as arsenic, cadmium, chromium and lead
• Radon
• Fluoride (in excessive amounts)

• Bacteria and nitrates are abundant in human and animal waste material. If either septic tank systems or livestock management areas are located too close to a well, contamination may result. Consumption of excessive amounts of nitrates can cause adverse health effects in infants less than 6 months of age and some adults. In agricultural areas, fertilizers and pesticides are frequently applied to crops. This can also occur in suburban areas where there are many lawns, gardens, and golf courses. These chemicals can reach ground water. Fertilizers contain nitrogen compounds which may break down into nitrates, adding to natural sources of nitrates.

• Underground storage tanks used for home heating fuels that can corrode and allow pollutants to leak into ground water.

• Improper disposal of household wastes such as used motor oil, paints, industrial products as well as other wastes that are not properly managed.

• Decommission any well that is abandoned, unusable, or not intended for future use.

• Do not store pesticides, fuels, fertilizers or other chemicals within 100 feet of your well.

• Follow package directions carefully when using pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers so that you do not overuse them.

• Properly dispose of hazardous substances.

• Do not flush potential contaminates down the toilet, pour into home drains, storm drains or onto the ground surface.

• Test your well water annually for bacteria; more often if you notice a change in taste, color, or odor of the water, or if there are changes in the area surrounding your well (such as flooding).

• Test your well water for nitrates at least every three years; more often if you are pregnant, have children under 6 months of age, or are aware that the ground water in your area is known to be high in nitrates.

• Disinfect your well after work is performed or repairs are made. For instructions, contact a well driller or click here (link to disinfecting a well).

• Install a sanitary seal to the top of your well casing. If one is already installed, check to be sure it is in place and tightly secured (although not all wells have sanitary seals and/or caps--some may have pumping equipment attached at the surface-- all wells need to be sealed from surface pollutants).

• Periodically check the condition of your well to be sure everything is in proper working order.

• NOT be used to store any chemicals, fuels, paints or fertilizers

• NOT be used as a storage shed and/or workshop

• Be properly ventilated, insulated and drained, including a properly reinforced concrete floor and structurally sound walls

• Provide adequate area for ease in installation and maintenance of water system components

• Have adequate lighting and heat

• watering stock
• single or group domestic use
• industrial purposes
• irrigation of lawn or non-commercial garden of 1/2 acre or less

Well permits must be obtained from the Department of Ecology. Your well driller is familiar with this process and will walk you through the process of obtaining a well permit. For information about obtaining a well permit and fees click here. 

• If you plan to divert any amount of water for any use from:
  • Surface waters
    • Lakes, rivers, streams, springs
  • Ground Water
    • If more than 5,000 gal/day
    • If irrigating more than 1/2 acre of lawn or non-commercial garden

Water Rights are more difficult to obtain than a well permit.
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WELL WATER DISINFECTION

 To disinfect the typical well:

1. Purchase 1 gallon of liquid household bleach (5.25% sodium     hypochlorite - unscented) available at any grocery or drug store.
2. Drain the water out of your pressure tank.
3. Add the gallon of bleach to a 5-gallon bucket of water and pour the mixture directly into the well via the access port or by removal of the sanitary seal.
4. Turn on the well pump and run water through a hose using a tap closest to the well until you smell chlorine.  Then direct the hose nozzle back down into the top of the well to disinfect inside the well casing.
5. Work your way from the well, opening ALL taps in and outside the house one at a time until the chlorine can be smelled at all taps.  This also includes the hot water tank, toilets, shower heads and clothes washer.
6. When the chlorine odor is noticeable at all taps, close each tap.  This will stop the well pump.  Try not to use the water system for 12 to 24 hours in order to allow the chlorine adequate time to disinfect the system. 
7. After disinfection, pump the system out starting with the tap closest to the well on which you can attach a hose.  Use a hose to direct the water to an area where vegetation is not growing (away from grass and shrubs).  Also, keep the discharge out of the septic tank and drainfield area.  Continue pumping until the chlorine cannot be smelled, then work your way from the well, running the water through EVERY tap until each tap is free from the smell of chlorine.  Do not drink the water if you still smell chlorine.
   
   Three to five days after the disinfection, after all chlorine has been removed and cannot be smelled, a water sample may be collected for bacterial examination to determine whether all contamination has been removed.

If you do not pump your well out, the chlorine may persist for a week or longer. 

In the event of a drinking water emergency, appropriate action must be taken until the problem is corrected.  One option is to buy bottled water.  Another option is to render your drinking water microbiologically safe by vigorously boiling it for 3-5 minutes before consumption.

For more information and/or assistance, contact the Environmental Health Division at 460-4568 or the BFHD Laboratory at 460-4206.